Ortler Normal Route

The ascent to the highest peak in South Tyrol

The ascent can be divided into two parts. The first part is on the ridge, with many exposed sections of easy rock climbing and partly aided. The second is on the glacier with some steep sections at the beginning and then on flatter slopes. The majesty of the landscape and the satisfaction of having reached the top will soon make us forget the early wake up. The ascent route passes through the “Payer” refuge. Although the Normal Ortler Route is the easiest way to reach the top, we should not underestimate it. A good physical condition, sure-footedness and high mountain experience, as well as essential requirements, will also be an advantage for an unforgettable experience on one of the most important and popular mountains in the Alps.

Technical informations


Height difference



Athletic difficulty

Technical difficulty


Day 1

800 m

2:30 hours - - - 3

Day 2

900 m

6/8 hours From Jun to September 4/5 PD+ 3*

* with 3 persons a solid climbing experience and good conditions of the route are required


in Solda at the parking lot of the Orso chairlift

What to bring

  • Harness
  • Crampons
  • Ice ax
  • Helmet
  • Water for two days in case of dry conditions (about 3 liters per person)
  • Snacks
  • High mountain clothing (see the "tips on how to dress" section)
  • Trekking poles are useful
  • Boots suitable for use with crampons (see the "advice on footwear" section)
  • Sleeping bag for overnight stay in the refuge
  • Sunscreen
  • Sun glasses
  • head lamp

The Price Includes

  • UIAGM / IFMGA The Outside Planet Alpine Guide
  • The guides speak Italian, English and German
  • Any technical material

The Price does not include

  • Overnight at Payer Hütte 
  • Chairlift ticket
  • Anything not specified in the item "The Price Includes"

To find out more, get availability and prices:

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