Mountaineering in the Ortler-Cevedale group

Sharp ridges and big glaciers to climb this giant in the central Alps

The “Ortler” with its 3905 is the highest peak in South Tyrol and it’s the culminating point not only of the “Ortles-Cevedale” group but also of the entire eastern Alpine chain.

This imposing mountain is located on the South Tyrolean territory between the valleys of “Trafoi” and “Solda”. The “Ortler” with the nearby “Mount Zebrù” and “Gran Zebrù” (Königspitze) form a grandiose set of glaciers and rocks interesting to climb.

Most of the ascents on the “Ortler” are on its north side along the normal routes. The south-east side of the “Coston” ridge is also very popular. The combination of these two itineraries allows you to make one of the most suggestive and elegant high mountain crossings in the Alps. Other “mixed” classics less frequented routes are the “Giogo Alto” ridge and the “Via dei Meranesi” on the west ridge. The Ortler isn’t accidentally called the "King". It is a serious, demanding mountain and it requires excellent physical condition and experience in walking on the rock and ice ridge, from any side you climb it.

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