Matterhorn (4478m) - Cresta del Leone

It’s the Italian normal route starting from Cervinia: technically more difficult than the Swiss one, but more equipped with fixed ropes and with the very high up bivouac.

Logistics

• From Cervinia with the lift up to Plan Maison (2500 m).
• In about 1 hour on foot we arrive at the Oriondè refuge (2885 m).
• From the Oriondè refuge, we go up over rock slabs crossing to “Colle del Leone”, where the ridge begins.
• From “Colle del Leone”, with  easy climbing sections and fixed ropes, we reach the Carrel bivouac (about 4/5 hours from Plan Maison), where we stay overnight (3835 m).
• Departure before dawn (4 or 5 depending on the season). Through physical passages on chains and fixed ropes we will reach  Pic Tyndall in about 2.30 / 3 hours which we will cross towards the final part of the climb.
• Other fixed ropes and the famous “Scala Jordan” will finally take us to the top. (about 4/5 hours from the Carrel bivouac)
• The descent takes place along the same route and often requires the same time as the ascent.

Technical Informations

Advice

• The times indicated for the ascent refer to a good trained mountaineer. We will have to try to respect times as much as possible to ensure a good safety margin on the way back.
• The “Capanna Carrel” is not a refuge, but a bivouac managed by the Cervino Guides. Especially in late season it will be necessary to bring water for the two days in addition to food.
• The guide, after talking with you, could propose any preparatory approach climbs, if he deems it appropriate.

What to bring

• Harness
• Crampons
• Ice ax
• Helmet
• Water for two days in case of dry conditions (about 3 liters per person)
• Snacks
• High mountain clothing (see the section "tips on how to dress")
• Trekking poles are useful
• Boots suitable for use with crampons (see the "advice on footwear" section)
• Sleeping bag for overnight stay in the refuge
• Sunscreen
• Sun glasses
• Food for the two days

Price

1000 euros

The Price Includes

• UIAGM / IFMGA The Outside Planet Alpine Guide
• The guides speak Italian, English and German
• Any technical material

The Price does not include

• Lift to Plan Maison (13 euros)
• Overnight at the Capanna Carrel (30 euros)
• Anything not specified in the item "The Price Includes"
• Any other personalized formulas for climbing the Matterhorn