Mont Blanc (4810m) - Italian Normal Route

Climbing Mont Blanc from the Italian side means relying entirely on your own means. We will not find facilities that allow us to climb in altitude, but we will cover the difference in altitude entirely on foot starting from the valley bottom. Although it is not technically difficult, the very high altitude difference, the altitude, the exposed passages and the crevassed glaciers make it a challenging climb reserved for well-trained mountaineers.

Logistics

1 day

The ascent to the “Gonella” refuge (3071 m) starts from “Val Veny” (1640 m), just beyond the town of Courmayeur. The climb takes us along the “Miage” glacier, largely covered by debris, and then goes up along aided rocky crags to the refuge in about 4 hours (difference in altitude 1430 m).

2 day

The alarm goes off around midnight. After breakfast we will soon reach the “Dome” glacier. We will climb it avoiding the crevasses, until we reach the ridge on “Piton des Italiens” (4003 m). The ascent continues on an exposed snowy ridge becoming wider up to the “Col du Dome” (4240m). Here we will cross the wide track that rises from the French side. Once at “Capanna Vallot” (4362m) we will follow the ridge of the “Bosse” to the summit (7/8 hours from the Refuge, 1730 m difference in altitude). The descent will follow the ascent itinerary. If physical strength allows it, it will be possible to go back to the valley or stay overnight at the “Gonella” refuge, and then go down comfortably the following day.

Technical Informations

Advice

• The times indicated for the ascent refer to mountaineers with good physical training. We will have to try to respect them as much as possible to ensure a good safety margin in the return.
• We would like to emphasize the importance of proper physical preparation. On request we can evaluate an approach with preparation climbs or give you simple personalized advice to get to the climb in the best possible way.

What to bring

• Harness 
• Crampons 
• Ice ax 
• Helmet
• Water with mineral salts
• Snacks
• High mountain clothing (see the "tips on how to dress" section)
• Trekking poles are useful
• Boots suitable for use with crampons (see the "advice on footwear" section)
• Sleeping bag for overnight stay in the refuge
• Sunscreen
• Sun glasses

Price

• 1 participant 1000 euros

• 2 participants 1200 euro

The Price Includes

• UIAGM / IFMGA The Outside Planet Mountain Guide
• The guides speak Italian, English and German
• Any technical material

The Price does not include

• Overnight at the Gonella refuge
• Possible approach climbs
• Anything not specified in the item "The Price Includes"