Piz Bernina - Biancograt

The “Bernina” is the summit over 4000m further east of the Alps. It gives the name to an isolated mountain group on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Compared to other climbs at these altitudes, even the Normal route offers non-trivial climbing difficulties, both on snow and on rock. Here we propose the super classic “Biancograt'', a mixed ridge of rock and snow that rises from the Swiss side.

The departure is from the characteristic village of Pontresina: we will enter the long Val Roseg with a horse-drawn carriage, saving us the 8 km approach. At the end of the valley we will walk up along the moraine on the hydrographic right up to the Tschierva refuge (2583m) in about 2 hours.

The second day we start very early with the front lights, entering the glacier and then climbing steeply towards the Fourcla Prievlusa (3445m, about 3 hours from the refuge). The most spectacular stretch begins with a long snowy ridge that climbs steeply up to Pizzo Bianco (3995m, about 5 hours from the refuge). 

The next section is largely rocky and alternates short abseils with climbing passages up to grade III. In another 2 hours from Pizzo Bianco we will reach the summit of Piz Bernina (4050m) from which we will enjoy a unique view of the central-eastern Alps (7 hours from the refuge).

The descent to the Marco e Rosa Refuge (3600m), although quite short, still requires attention for the exposed sections and for some abseils. Once we reach the refuge on the Italian side, we will finally enjoy a well-deserved rest (8/9 hours from the Tschierva refuge).

The third day the way back offers two possibilities:

• “The Piz Palü Traverse” (3905m). Undoubtedly the most spectacular solution even if physically more demanding. After the first stretch, called the “Bellavista traverse”, we begin to climb first on rock and then along a sharp snowy ridge crossing the three Piz Palü from west to east. (4 hours from the refuge). From the summit of the eastern Piz Palü we descend along the normal route without technical difficulties, but on a very crevassed glacier. Finally, the last ascent to the Diavolezza cable car awaits us (6 hours from the “Marco and Rosa” refuge). We are back to the Bernina pass and from here back to Pontresina with the characteristic Red Little Train.
• The “Fortezza”. This descent follows the normal Swiss route and is faster and more direct than the “Piz Palü Traverse” . After traversing the “Bellavista”, instead of going up to the Palü, we will descend to the left along a rocky spur with rappels (La Fortezza), down to the underlying glacier. After the last ascent  to the Diavolezza cable car (about 4/5 hours from the “Marco and Rosa” refuge) we will return to Pontresina with the lift and the Red Little Train.

Technical details

Advice

• On request we propose the ascent by the normal Swiss route from the “Fortezza” which follows one of the two descent options from the Biancograt previously described. Contact us!
• The “Biancograt” can only be climbed with good snow conditions. The ridge that climbs to Pizzo Bianco in dry and icy conditions would be excessively dangerous.
• On request, it is possible to plan some preparatory climbs for this climb. Contact us to find the best solution!

What to bring

• Harness 
• Crampons 
• Ice ax 
• Helmet
• Water for two days in case of dry conditions (about 3 liters per person)
• Snacks
• High mountain clothing (see the "tips on how to dress" section)
• Trekking poles are useful
• Boots suitable for use with crampons (see the "advice on footwear" section)
• Sleeping bag for overnight stay in the refuge
• Sunscreen
• Sun glasses

Price

1000 euro descending the Normal Swiss Route

1200 euro climbing Piz Palu on the way down

The Price Includes

• UIAGM / IFMGA The Outside Planet Mountain Guide
• The guides speak Italian, English and German
• Any technical material

The Price does not include

• Lifts, horse-drawn carriage in Val Roseg and Bernina Red Little Train tickets
• Overnight in the refuge
• Anything not specified in the item "The Price Includes"